In the auction and antique world, a little knowledge is a powerful tool. Understanding what you are looking at, and what you should be looking for, can make or break a purchase. In this edition of Genuine vs. Generic, we will provide simple tricks you can use to authenticate bronze sculptures.
Let’s get down to base-ics.
- It is highly unusual for any authentic 19th or 20th century bronze sculpture to come permanently fixed to a base. Originally, customerswould purchase the bronze and then choose a separate base to suite their decorating needs.
- A rubber pad under the base often times disguises how the sculpture is affixed. If you see a Philips head screw, chances are good it is a reproduction.
- Use caution if you notice the same base on several sculptures from the same seller.
- Is there a metal tag on the base with the artist’s name and sculpture’s title? This is not a good sign. “Virtually no originals have these tags.”[1]
What’s it really made of?
- Try the magnet test. Place any small magnet against the sculpture. If it sticks, the work is made of iron.
- Check for red rust, especially in crevices. Moisture is slow to evaporate in these areas.
Devil is in the Details
- Look carefully at hands, eyes, and hair (human sculptures) and at hooves/paws, eyes, and fur (animal sculptures). In reproductions, these features lack any detail.
- Drilled holes are often used in reproductions for hands holding objects.
What’s in a name?
- Tiffany Studios New York
- Forged signatures often appear with raised letters against a depressed rectangle background. Authentic signatures are “impressed below the surface.”[2]
- Frederic Remington
- Authentic sculptures are marked with the foundry name and onlytwo firms produced Remingtons: Roman Bronze Works and Henry-Bonnard Bronze Co.
- Reproductions are marked with limited edition numbers while originals display the sequence of production number.
- Authentic Remingtons were only cast in one or two sizes. Reproductions are made in many sizes.
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